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Drop by and share your favourite recipe, food find or food and wine pairing. Bon appetit!

Sunday, July 4, 2010

A brief hiatus

Hi everyone,
I am on vacation but am planning all kinds of blog posts for when I return in a couple of weeks, including a cool mango and melon soup -- a perfect summer appetizer.
Hope you're enjoying the warm weather.

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Good to the bone

One of Italy's signature dishes has become one of our favourites. Osso Bucco was something I had read about, dreamt of but never tried until a couple of years ago, largely because I was stuck on the idea that it had to be made with veal shanks, and they aren't that easy to find.
It's funny how you can get stuck on something for no good reason.
And then Glenn and I fell in love with a restaurant in downtown St. John's that had Osso Bucco on the menu and it was made with lamb shanks. It was pure heaven: succent, falling-off-the-bone lamb in a rich, tomato and red-wine based sauce, served with garlic whipped potatoes and beautifully sauteed Beatrix Potter baby carrots, with green tops attached.
That restaurant became "our" restaurant, and it was where we got engaged.
Sadly, it is now defunct, but it inspired us to find our own Osso Bucco recipe and the one we found is so well-loved that the cookbook page is smeared with stains from lemon juice and fresh herbs.
Our version, unlike the restaurant dish we loved so well, is the Milanese "blond" version. It's made with white wine, not red, and has citrus flavours, not tomato. We've enjoyed "red" versions of Osso Bucco in Florence and at our friend Nancy's house, and they were absolutely wonderful, but for some reason this recipe sticks with us. We love buying the lamb shanks at Halliday's Meat Market downtown, where the prices are affordable and the service is warm, friendly and an experience in itself.
We serve this with whipped potatoes and the Mushrooms in Garlic Cream that I blogged about in an earlier post (and pictured here). Trust me, after this, you won't need dessert.
This recipe is from my go-to Italian cookbook, Jane Price's Italian Kitchen. It uses 12 pieces of veal shank, but I just substitute the lamb shanks.

Osso Bucco Alla Milanese (serves 4)
4 lamb shanks
flour for dusting, seasoned with salt and pepper in a Ziploc bag
1/4 cup olive oil
2 1/4 oz. butter
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped (and if you have celery leaves, chop those and throw them in, too)
1 cup dry white wine
1 bay leaf
a pinch of ground allspice
a pinch of ground cinnamon

Gremolata
2 tsps. grated lemon zest
2 tbsp. finely chopped flat leaf Italian parsley
1 garlic clove, finely chopped

Dust each shank with the seasoned flour. Heat the oil, butter, garlic, onion and celery in a heavy-based frying pan or sacepan that is big enough to hold the shanks in a single layer (but don't add the shanks yet). Cook for about 5 minutes over low heat until softened but not browned. Add the shanks to the pan and cook for 12-15 minutes or until well browned all over. Pour in the wine and add the bay leaf, allspice and cinnamon. Bring to a boil and cover the pan. Turn the heat down to low.
Cook at a low simmer for 15 minutes, then add 1/2 cup of warm water. Continue cooking, covered, for 45-60 minutes (this may take longer because the lamb shanks can be thicker than veal shanks) or until the meat is tender and pulling away from the bone and you can cut it with a fork. Check the volume of liquid once or twice while it is simmering and add more water if needed. (I have never had to do that).
To make the gremolata, mix together the parsley, lemon zest and garlic.
Transfer the shanks to a plate and keep warm. Discard the bay leaf. Increase the heat under the pan and stir for 1-2 minutes until the sauce has thickened, scraping up any bits on the bottom of the pan. Season to taste and return the shanks to the pan. Heat everything through and stir in half the gremolata. Use the other half as garnish.

And if you can eat this without picking the shank up in your hands at some point, you're a stronger person than I.

Monday, June 14, 2010

Herb heaven

Our herbs are coming in nicely now and one of my favourite parts of making dinner is grabbing the scissors and a basket and heading outdoors to snip some, whether for flavour or garnish or both.
We've got more than ever growing now: two kinds of oregano, two kinds of sage, three of thyme, four of mint, two of chives and basil, some tarragon, dill, fennel, rosemary and summer savoury. For some reason I don't have much luck with basil, either indoors or out, but it's my favourite so I keep on trying. If anyone has the secret to growing it successfully, please feel free to share it.
This first recipe I made last night, because I want to expand my repertoire of elegant dinner party soups, and this one sounded like it fit the bill.
I was not disappointed. It's like green velvet -- smooth and full of flavour. My husband said it trumps the Chilled Bell Pepper and Avocado Soup recipe I posted here earlier, and I agree. This is a soup fit for the fanciest dinner, and it looks beautiful in bowls -- luscious, emerald green.
The recipe is from Lazy Days and Beach Blankets, which is fast becoming my favourite fine-weather cookbook. If only the weather would co-operate. If you can't find all of the ingredients, don't worry, you can improvise.
Chilled Spinach, Arugula and Watercress Soup (serves 4)
4 shallots, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 fresh nutmeg, grated (or about 1/4 tsp. dried nutmeg plus extra for garnish)
1/3 cup dry white wine
1 3/4 c. vegetable stock
8 oz. of mixed fresh arugula, watercress and spinach or any two of these three
3/4 light cream or yogurt
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
4 tsp. light cream, to serve
4 large leaves of fresh arugula, to serve
Heat olive oil in a skillet and add shallots, garlic and nutmeg and cook over low heat until the shallots and garlic are soft. Add the wine and stock and bring to a boil, then simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.
Put the spinach, arugula and watercress into a large pot of boiling, lightly salted water and gently submerse the leaves with a spoon. Blanch for 1 minute. Drain and plunge the leaves into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process. Drain and squeeze out excess water with your hands.
Put the leaves and soup into a food processor or blender and blend until smooth. Add the cream or yogurt and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and chill for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Ladle the soup into bowls, drizzle in your cream and serve with arugula leaves and grated nutmeg.
Notes: I could not find a whole nutmeg, but the dried spice worked just fine. There was no watercress at my supermarket, so I used half arugula and half spinach, as well as two-thirds yogurt to one-third cream instead of merely one or the other. The wine I used was a Chardonnay, which we also enjoyed drinking with the soup. The garnish came straight from the garden.

Want to make an inexpensive cut of beef feed a family of four? I found this recipe online and we made it for a family dinner Friday night. It's from Weber's On The Grill: Steak & Sides, by Jamie Purviance and it received rave reviews, in large part because of my husband's expert grilling.
This dish is full of fresh flavours from the garden, as well as the tender, smoky steak, the zip of the balasmic vinegar reduction and the creamy melting flakes of parmesan. The recommonded wine pairing is a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, but we had it with an Italian Merlot and that worked just fine.
Tagliata of Flank Steak (serves 4)
1 flank steak, about 750 g (1 1/2 lb) and 2 cm (3/4 inch) thick
Extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
75 ml (1/3 cup) balsamic vinegar
2 ml (1/2 tsp) granulated sugar
1.5 l (6 cups) loosely packed baby arugula
250 ml (1 cup) loosely packed shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Lightly brush steak on both sides with oil and season evenly with salt andpepper. Allow steak to stand at room temperature for 15 to 30 minutes before grilling. Prepare grill for direct cooking over high heat (230 to 290 C/450 to 550 F).
In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, combine balsamic vinegar and sugar. Allow mixture to reduce by half, 6 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and let cool.
Brush cooking grates clean. Grill steak over direct high heat, with the lid closed as much as possible, until cooked to your desired doneness, 6 to 8 minutes for medium rare, turning once or twice. (If flare-ups occur, move the steak temporarily over indirect heat.) Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 3 to 5 minutes. Cut steak in half lengthwise and then cut each half across the grain into thin slices; divide evenly among serving plates. Pour any juices remaining on the cutting board over the steak, and pile the arugula on top. Drizzle each serving of arugula with oil and the balsamic reduction, season with salt and pepper and top with the cheese.

And in case you were wondering, tagliata is from the Italian and means trimmed or cut. (Thanks Italian Word of the Day).

Monday, June 7, 2010

For starters ...

Your supermarket's produce section is at its best this time of year: plump, succulent tomatoes, tender fresh herbs (if your growing season is as short as ours and your herb garden hasn't hit its stride yet), shiny peppers and luscious buttery avocadoes.
The old standby store-bought appetizers that you pop into a hot oven and serve with bottled dipping sauce might cut it on bitter winter nights, but in spring you want to serve your friends and family something fresh and full of flavour.
Here are three simple and wonderful ways to start a meal.
This first recipe comes from one of my favourite books, Jane Price's Italian Kitchen.

Pesto-Topped Cherry Tomatoes (makes about 50 - serves 10-12)
60 g (2 1/4 oz) flat leaf parsley, chopped
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
2 tbsp. pine nuts, toasted (watch them in the saucepan; they burn fast)
60 ml (1/4 cup) olive oil
60 g (2 1/4 oz) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 handful fresh basil leaves
15 g (1/2 oz) butter, at room temperature
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) cherry or grape tomatoes
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Put the parsley, garlic, pine nuts and oil in a food processor or blender and process. Add Parmesan, basil, butter and black pepper and process or blend until well combined (you can also use a deep bowl and a wand blender for this step).
Slice the tops from the tomatoes and spoon a little mound of the pesto mixture on top of each.

Notes: The pesto can be made several days ahead. Just spoon the pesto into a container and cover with a thin layer of olive oil. Cover with a lid.
Or, if you're not feeling terribly energetic, buy some store-brand pesto (as long as it's good quality -- and Sobey's Compliments brand works just fine) and take the easy way out. There's nothing wrong with giving yourself a break, though made-from-scratch pesto will always taste better.

Prosciutto-Wrapped Scallops
This is less recipe, more tip: my husband and I have long since given up bacon-wrapped scallops in favour of this version. All you do is wrap half a slice of prosciutto around a plump, fresh scallop (don't use the tiny ones; they're only fit for soup or salad), secure with a toothpick and either grill on the barbecue, broil in the oven, or pan fry till tender. This only takes about five minutes. Don't overcook them or they will get tough. We like the grilled ones best -- they have a lovely smokey flavour. Prosciutto beats bacon hands-down: it's better for you, and less greasy and salty. (Not that I've ever turned down a bacon-wrapped scallop, mind you).
Enjoy with chilled dry sparkling wine. Prosecco is my favourite pairing, but any dry white sparkling goes nice with the salty scallops.

This cold and elegant soup recipe is from a cookbook called Lazy Days and Beach Blankets (Ryland, Peters & Small 2009) and makes a delicious and refreshing beginning to any summer meal -- especially on a hot day.

Chilled Avocado and Bell Pepper Soup (serves 4)

1 tbsp. olive oil
1/2 onion, finely chopped
1 green bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1/2 green chile, seeded and finely chopped
6 cups vegetable stock
freshly squeezed juice of one lime
1 avocado, halved, pitted and peeled
a handful of fresh mint leaves
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
plain low-fat yogurt, to serve
fresh herbs as garnish
Put the oil, onion, bell pepper and chile in a saucepan and
cook over gentle heat for about 20 minutes until completely soft. Let cool.
Transfer to a blender, add the vegetable stock, lime juice, avocado flesh and mint leaves and mix until smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste then serve in bowls or glasses, topped with a dollop of yogurt and garnish with fresh herbs.

Monday, May 31, 2010

Choosing sides

If you ever get tired of having the same old side dishes -- mashed potatoes, Caesar salad, rice pilaf -- you might enjoy these two recipes for delicious dishes that even the kids will love (unless they hate mushrooms).
One of these is so simple it would be embarrassing to print it here if it wasn't so good, but then we don't all have to be Martha Stewart every night of the week. (Not that she hasn't taught me a thing or two.)
The other is the mushroom recipe, which takes about 10 minutes to make but is wonderful, particularly if one of your other sides with the meal is mashed or baked potatoes and the delicious mushroom sauce ends up on the potatoes.
If this crappy weather is making you cranky, try cranking up your tastebuds by trying these on the side with your next steak, roast chicken, lamb or pork dish.
These leeks will make a leek lover out of any leek-uncertain person.

Carmelized Leeks (serves 4)
2 leeks, sliced and well rinsed
2 tbsp. butter, salted or unsalted, depending on your preference
freshly ground black pepper

Melt butter over a medium heat in a large, shallow frying pan. Add sliced leeks and freshly ground pepper to taste and brown on both sides until the leeks are carmelized. This takes about 10 minutes per side, but keep a close eye on them as they can quickly go from carmelized to burned. These absolutely melt in your mouth and go really well with a lovely steak. When it's just the two of us, we always make enough for four people so we can have them again the next day.

This next recipe is a must whenever we make Osso Buco, but more on that later. It pairs very well with lamb, steak, roasted Cornish hens, and as a topping on baked potatoes if you're feeling really decadent. This is always a hit at dinner parties, and it's so easy. The nice thing is, you can cook it at the last minute while your guests are enjoying a glass of wine. It's so fast, they won't even miss you.
The recipe comes from Jane Price's Italian Kitchen, although I always add about a tablespoon of fresh thyme when I make it.

Garlic Cream Mushrooms (serves 4)
1 oz. (30 g) butter (I prefer unsalted)
9 oz. (250 g) white mushrooms, sliced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 cup (250 ml) whipping cream
1 tbsp. chopped flat leaf Italian parsley
1 tbsp. fresh thyme
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste (I skip the salt)

Heat the butter over medium heat in a skillet. Add the sliced mushrooms and crushed garlic and stir for 3-5 minutes until the mushrooms are tender.
Turn the heat to high. Add the cream and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer for three minutes until the cream has thickened slightly. Add the chopped fresh herbs and season to taste.

Monday, May 24, 2010

Cooking with Sherri

I confess, there was a time when the thought of cooking a rack of lamb made me nervous. There was something intimidating about it; it sounded so formal, pretentious even. Well, one good thing about getting older is you become fearless in the kitchen. Heck, now I'm willing to try anything once.
So recently, when my sister-in-law, Sherri, and I discovered we had a mutual desire to cook a rack or two, we decided to have a kitchen cooking party, at our house.
I found this recipe in my kitchen Bible -- Gourmet Today, edited by Ruth Reichl. It sounded challenging -- the kind of dish that gives you the most satisfaction in the kitchen when it turns out well.
I was hoping that together we could produce the kind of dinner you'd expect from a fine-dining restaurant, at a fraction of the price. I wasn't disappointed.
Basically, I took care of the prep, and once Sherri and my brother arrived, she finished off the cooking.
This takes a while from start to finish, so be prepared to make a night of it. We enjoyed this so much -- both the cooking and the socializing -- that we're thinking of making our kitchen cooking party a regular event.
This recipe would make wonderfully romantic dinner for two, but for our purposes, we just doubled everything. Be sure to read the recipe through carefully before you begin.


Provencal Rack of Lamb (serves 2)

A savory sauce of roasted tomatoes, black olives, shallots, anchovies and white wine, thickened with roasted garlic, makes a sublime base for tender rack of lamb. ... Be sure to have crusty bread on hand for mopping up the sauce.*

1/2 cup plus 1/3 cup dry white wine
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic head, left whole, plus two cloves peeled and crushed
1/4 cup finely chopped shallots
2 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
2 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 (8 rib) frenched rack of lamb (about 1 1/2 lbs.)**
2 tbsp. plus 1/4 tsp olive oil
1 pint (8 oz.) grape tomatoes, halved lengthwise
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp. Dijon mustard
4 anchovy fillets
1/4 cup Nicoise olives, pitted
1/4 cup water
2 tbsp. flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Put a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat oven to 450 F.
Combine 1/3 cup wine, extra-virgin olive oil, smashed garlic cloves, shallots and half the rosemary and thyme in a sealable plastic bag. Add the lamb and seal, squeezing out excess air, and marinate at room temperature for an hour (or longer in the fridge).
Meanwhile, trim 1/4 inch off the top of the head of garlic. Drizzle the tops of the exposed cloves with 1/4 tsp. olive oil and wrap head in foil. Roast garlic until pale golden and tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, about 45 minutes. Leave the oven on.
While the garlic is roasting, toss the tomatoes with 1 tbsp. olive oil, 1/4 tsp. salt, 1/8 tsp. pepper and the remaining thyme and rosemary in a bowl until coated. Arrange tomatoes on a foil-lined baking sheet and roast until beginning to brown, about 20 minutes. Set aside. Leave oven on.
Remove lamb from marinade and reserve marinade. Discard smashed garlic cloves. Scrape shallots off the lamb and return them to the marinade. Pat the meat dry and season with 1/2 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. pepper.
Heat remaining 1 tbsp. olive oil in a large, heavy ovenproof skillet over moderately high heat until the oil is hot but not smoking. Add lamb and sear, turning once, until browned, about 4 minutes per side. Spread mustard over both sides of the lamb with the back of a spoon.
Turn lamb fat side down in the skillet, place it in the oven and roast it untill a thermometer inserted about 2 inches into the centre registers 130 F (for medium-rare), 16 to 20 minutes. Transfer lamb to a cutting board and let stand, loosely covered with foil, for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, squeeze roasted garlic from skins into a bowl and mash with a fork.
Add reserved marinade to the skillet you roasted the lamb in and bring to a boil, scraping up any brown bits. Reduce heat to moderate, stir in remaining 1/2 cup wine and anchovies and simmer, covered, until shallots are softened, about 5 minutes. Stir to blend anchovies into sauce and then add the mashed garlic, tomatoes, olives, water and parsley and stir until well combined. Stir in any meat juices that have accumulated on the cutting board.
Cut lamb into chops. Spoon tomato and olive sauce onto two plates and arrange chops on top.


*We loved the sauce so much that when there was some left over, we rushed out the next night and bought lamb chops, marinated them in olive oil and fresh rosemary, salt and pepper, grilled them and then served them with the reheated sauce.

** As Gourmet Today recommends, we bought our racks of lamb fresh (not frozen) at a big box store. It cost about $35 for two racks. It's not inexpensive, but is still reasonable for a fancy dinner for four compared to eating out at a restaurant.


We served our racks of lamb with my husband's famous whipped potatoes, and baby carrots that I parboiled, then sauteed in butter and fresh tarragon and pepper untill crisp-tender. We also enjoyed a lovely pinot noir.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

A flurry of curry

Something about all of this dull and dreary weather we've been having has made me long for intense colour and flavour. I've always figured if there isn't any colour to be had outside, you can always conjure some up in the kitchen.

When I've got a hankering for intense, in-your-face flavour, I always think curry. Not only is it aromatic and tasty, but it makes you feel all warm inside, even if outside it's steady rain, drizzle and fog. It's one of those wonderful dishes that tastes even better the next day, and it makes your house smell like a scene from A Passage to India.

The chicken recipe was given to me years ago by my friend Sheila, and it's my go-to curry. I've tried many other variations, but this one is my mainstay. The only difference between Sheila's recipe and mine is that I add honey at the end. We serve the curry on a bed of steamed plain basmatic rice. Feel free to throw in some golden raisins and slivered almonds, too, if you want added texture.

This recipe can easily be doubled if you like to take leftovers to work for lunch.

Sheila's Chicken Curry (serves 4)
1 thumb-sized piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped fine
1 chicken, cut into 8 serving pieces, skin removed
3 tbsp. olive oil
2 large onions, chopped
2 gloves garlic, minced
3 tbsp. curry powder
1 tsp. chili powder
1 tsp. paprika
3 tsp. salt
1 28 oz. can diced tomatoes, including juice
2 tbsp. fresh mint, chopped
3 tsp. garam masala
1/2 c. plain, low-fat yogurt
1 tbsp. honey


Heat oil and fry garlic, onions and ginger until soft and golden. Add curry powder, chili powder and paprika and stir for 1 minute. Add salt, tomatoes and chopped mint and cook to a pulp. Add honey and stir through. Add chicken and stir well to coat. Cover and simmer on low heat for 45 minutes or until chicken is tender, stirring occasionally throughout. Stir in garam masala and yogurt and heat through, simmering uncovered for 5 minutes. Serve over basmati rice and garnish with fresh mint.

*****
This next recipe is excellent for potlucks and works well as a side with many things: baked ham, cold roast chicken, barbecued ribs, pork chops, steak, and as we recently discovered, freshly boiled lobster with melted butter.

This has become a staple at large family gatherings at our house, and almost everyone who's ever had it has asked for the recipe. There's just something about the spice and the great crunchy texture that people seem to enjoy. I don't think I've ever made this without doubling the recipe, because you can keep it in the fridge for four or five days.

I found the recipe in the Harrowsmith Cookbook: Volume Three, as contributed by Greta Bacher of Dorset, Ont. Thanks, Greta!

Rice & Vegetable Salad (serves 4 to 6)
1 cup basmati rice
2 cups green peas
1/2 cup chopped celery (I chop the celery leaves and throw those in, too)
1/2 cup minced green onions
1/2 cup toasted sliced almonds
1/2 cup vegetable oil
2 tbsp. vinegar
2 tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce
2 tsp. curry
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. celery salt

Cook rice then mix with peas, celery, green onions and almonds. Combine remaining ingredients, pour over salad and toss. Chill before serving.
*****
Waste not, want not
Most people hate seeing food go to waste, and if you're like me you resent the fact that every time you need a tablespoon of tomato paste, you have to buy a whole can, which usually ends up going bad in the fridge and getting tossed out.

I remember watching an episode of The Urban Peasant once where James Barber (God rest his soul) had tomato paste that came in a tube, like toothpaste and anchovy paste. What a great product! Alas, you cannot get it at my local supermarket, nor have I seen it at any supermarket in the province.
I recently wrote to Sobeys and asked them to consider carrying it, and received this reply from customer service:

I would like to assure you that you do have an influence on which products are offered. Any requests or concerns regarding products are logged and passed on to our Merchandising Department where they are considered and kept on file. I have passed a copy of your email along to them, and have been advised that the category is under review. I hope this meets with your approval. If you have any future questions, comments, concerns and/or suggestions please do not hesitate to e-mail us again or call our toll-free customer care line
(1-888-944-0442).


If you'd like to see tomato paste in a tube, let your supermarket know and perhaps they will consider stocking it.
*****

Food and wine pairing

When my husband cooked us lobster last weekend, which we served with the curried rice salad, we considered which wine to drink with it. The standard suggestion is a chardonnay or sauvignon blanc, but we were feeling adventurous and opted for a white zinfandel from California. We enjoyed how the sweet fruitiness of the wine held its own up against the curry spice, and complemented the sweetness of the lobster. And it looks very pretty in a glass!

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Dining al fresco

Some of the best food I've enjoyed has been eaten outside in the great outdoors. A cappuccino and a buttery pastry on the patio of an Italian cafe, mussels boiled up in a pot of salt water over an open fire on a beach in Trinity Bay, or crisp and golden calamari at a harbourfront eatery in Halifax -- there's just something about fresh air that makes food taste better.
On Saturday, knowing that Sunday would be spent cooking Mother's Day dinner for my mom and dad and other family members, my husband and I decided to make a break for it when the weather turned fair and hike in the Marine Drive area, just outside St. John's.
He packed our knapsack with food and water for us and our dog, and off we went.
The new section of East Coast Trail off Doran's Lane is spectacular, and you can walk for hours or minutes, depending on how energetic you feel. The scenery is awesome, with sheer cliffs and pounding waves, sea caves, gnarled trees, and points of rock jutting out into the ocean like the splayed fingers of some giant creature.
The weather was perfect for us, warm but with a refreshing breeze. The trail is in excellent shape and includes some exhilirating climbs. It's boggy in places but the boardwalk prevents you from running amok, unless you're a little grey dog whose nose sometimes gets the better of him.
Once we found a suitable location, my husband used a plank that just happened to be lying around to fashion a primitive bench for us at the base of a huge sun-warmed boulder that we could rest our backs against.
He unpacked the knapsack: barbecued chicken he'd grilled the night before, deliciously sweet grape tomotoes, a little smoked Gruyere, and cold spicy sweet potato wedges. Best of all, he'd tucked in a tetrapak of Australian Cabernet Shiraz, which washed everything down.
We sat and sipped wine from little metal cups and watched the waves pound the shore, and marvelled at how relaxing it was and how lucky we are to have free access to such a wonderful trail system.
The dog enjoyed his cooked baby carrots and chicken livers, along with a nice bowl of ice water. We spent three hours soaking up the sun and breathing in the salty air before heading home.
What a great pre-Mother's Day -- like a rejuvenating spa experience without the nasty bill at the end. The end of Mother's Day on Sunday had a sweet finish, too, when the kids made me a cake.

We make these spicy sweet potato wedges hot out of the oven as a side dish with steak, but they're good cold, or reheated the next day. I also like to throw in some chunks of sweet potato when we're making regular oven-roasted baby potatoes, too, just because I like the contrasting flavours.
I can't even remember where I found this recipe, but I sure hope you enjoy it if you give it a try. It's easy and sweet potato is high in Vitamin A, which is an added plus.

Spiced Sweet Potato Wedges (makes 4 servings)

1 1/2. lbs. sweet potatoes (2-3 medium, peeled, washed and cut into quarters or eighths, lengthwise, depending on the size of the potato)
1/2 tsp. each of cumin seed, coriander seed and peppercorns
1 tsp. coarse salt
1 tbsp. olive oil

Preheat oven to 450 F.
In a small skillet over medium-high heat, combine cumin and coriander seeds and peppercorns and toast until just fragrant and they start to pop -- about 3 minutes. Grind seeds with a mortar and pestle or in a spice grinder until smooth. In a large bowl, combine sweet potatoes, spices half the salt and all of the olive oil. Toss to coat.
Arrange in a single layer on a heavy-duty baking sheet and roast, turning once, until potatoes are golden and tender, about 30 minutes.
Sprinkle with remaining salt and serve immediately.

My husband has also grilled these on the barbecue and they turned out just as well, with nice spots of carmelization and light charring from the sugar in the sweet potatoes.

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Tastes of Tuscany

There's nothing better than spending Friday night at home, cooking together and unwinding at the end of a long week. One of my favourite things to do is listen to music with my husband, light the candles, get dressed up and make risotto. Hey, it's not everyone's idea of kicking back, but it works for me.

Last night, we decided to make one of our favourites: Tuscan Cornish game hens and mushroom risotto. It may sound like a lot of work after working all day, but it really isn't. The whole meal from start to finish, including prep, takes a little more than an hour. And when you finally sit down at the table and take your first bite of creamy, earthy, cheesy risotto, you'll know it was absolutely worth it.

We enjoyed this meal with a delicious 2005 Spanish Tempranillo that cost less than $15 and was full-bodied and fruity with a hint of vanilla.

Cheers!

Tuscan Cornish Game Hens (serves 6, but you can easily adjust the serving size)

(From Flavours of Tuscany, by Nancy Harmon Jenkins)

6 slices prosciutto
3 slices pancetta
3 Cornish hens, each about 3/4 lb.
3 fresh sage leaves
3 fresh bay leaves
6 pitted black olives
2 tsbp. virgin olive oil
freshly ground salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 400 F.
Tuck a slice of pancetta, 2 olives, a bay leaf and a sage leaf inside each bird. Sprinkle salt and pepper all over Cornish hens, rubbing it into the skin, then rub them all over with the olive oil. Wrap each bird in two strips of prosciutto, crisscrossed. Set the birds into a baking dish into which they fit comfortably.
Roast, uncovered, for 15 minutes, then reduce oven temperature to 325 F and continue roasting 30-45 minutes longer, until the juices run clear when the thigh is punctured with a skewer.
Let birds rest for 5 minutes, then cut them in half vertically and serve immediately, with pan juices.
We used 2 hens last night which makes 4 servings, so we don't have to cook tonight.
This is excellent with whipped potatoes and a salad, but my favourite side dish is:

Mushroom Risotto (serves 6)
(Adapted from the Kitchen Classics series Italian Kitchen by Jane Price)
3/4 oz. (20 g) dried porcini mushrooms (my grocery store only carries the 14 g package and that's fine)
4 cups (1 litre) chicken or vegetable stock
2 tbsp. olive oil
3 1/2 oz. (100 g) unsalted butter
1 lb 7 oz. (650 g) white or brown mushrooms, sliced
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1/3 cup (80 ml) dry white wine or vermouth
1 onion finely chopped
2 cups (440 g) arborio rice
1 1/2 cups (150 g) freshly grated parmesan cheese
fresh thyme, to taste and for garnish
freshly ground pepper, to taste

Soak dried porcini mushrooms in 2 cups hot water and let sit for 30 minutes. Drain through a sieve lined with a paper coffee filter or paper towel, reserving the liquid and coarsely chopping the mushrooms. Add the chopped porcini to your other sliced mushrooms. Add the reserved liquid to the 1 litre of chicken stock in a deep pot and bring to a boil, then let it simmer on a back burner.
Heat half the oil and butter in a frying pan over high heat, add the mushrooms and garlic and stir until tender, 5-10 minutes. Reduce heat to low and cook a further 5 minutes. Increase the heat and add the wine or vermouth and cook for about 5 minutes, until most of it and the mushroom liquid has evaporated. Watch this, or it will burn. Set aside.
In a large, deep skillet, heat the other half of the oil and butter, add the onion and some fresh thyme and cook at medium heat until the onion is soft and golden, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat, about 2 minutes. Still at medium heat, start adding the stock to the pan, a ladleful at a time and keep stirring the risotto until all the broth is gone. Keep ladling in the broth and stirring until all the broth is gone and the risotto is tender but al dente. If you use all the liquid and the risotto is still not cooked well enough, add another cup of broth. All the stirring takes about half an hour, so have a nice glass of Chardonnay at hand. You'll earn it. It also helps when your husband offers to take a turn stirring.
When the risotto is done to your liking, remove it from the heat and add the grated parmesan and the mushroom mixture. Stir till the cheese melts and sprinkle with fresh thyme. Season with freshly ground pepper to taste. You shouldn't need salt, since the parmesan is salty.

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

For starters

I don't know about you, but when we host a dinner party, we like to start off with something to get our guests' tastebuds revved up, but not something so substantial that they lose interest in dinner.
I've found various recipes that work well, but this one is an appetizer I turn to frequently, probably because it contains some of my favourite foods (goat cheese, pine nuts, cream and fresh basil), all in one bite-sized offering. Let's face it, how could anything with those ingredients be bad?
Friends who've tried these have liked how light and fresh-tasting they are. Elegant looking and full of flavour, they're perfect in spring and summer when produce here is at its finest.
I like to call them basil boats, since that's what they look like, but the fancy name is:

Basil Leaves stuffed with Chevre and Pine Nuts
(makes 4 servings)

1/2 cup pine nuts
4 oz. soft chevre (goat cheese) at room temperature
2 tbsp. heavy cream
freshly ground pepper
20 large basil leaves, each about 3 inches long
1 medium tomato, finely diced
extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, for drizzling

In a small, dry skillet, toast pine nuts over medium heat, shaking the pan occasionally until golden and fragrant, about three minutes or so. Let cool.
In another small bowl, combine goat cheese and cream, and season with pepper.
Spread 1 tsp. of the goat cheese mixture onto each basil leaf. Sprinkle with pine nuts, pressing them into the cheese. Scatter the diced tomato on top. Drizzle lightly with olive oil and balsamic and serve on your prettiest plate or platter. These are great because you don't need serving plates -- they are one-bite wonders.

Notes: If you don't like to make lots of dishes dirty before your guests arrive, you can make a simpler version of this. Use goat cheese flavoured with pepper instead of adding freshly ground pepper, don't bother toasting the pine nuts (they're fine as they are) and omit the heavy cream. I've made them this way many times and it's much faster and they still taste like a symphony of fresh flavours in your mouth. If you do decide to toast the pine nuts, watch them carefully. They will burn fast if not jostled around in the pan.

We love this appetizer with sparkling wine, such as Prosecco, or lovely and inexpensive Tots, which our liquor store just stopped stocking. It's also nice with a Sauvignon Blanc.
Of course, it goes without saying that everything's lovelier with Champagne, but that's out of reach for me unless it's a really special occasion. Besides, I don't like cluttering up my bubbly with food.
As an added bonus, this is a great appetizer to serve if you have friends with nut allergies, since pine nuts aren't actually nuts. Be sure to check with your allergic friends beforehand, of course.

We started our own herb garden two years ago with great success, but we're having a devil of a time getting basil to grow outside. If anyone has any tips on that, I'd love to hear them, as I am a fresh basil freak.

Monday, May 3, 2010

Roman holiday

Today it was blissfully sunny in my corner of the world, and I was reminded of a holiday in 2008 that took us to Italy.
We arrived in Rome on a blisteringly hot September afternoon and grabbed a taxi to our B&B, which had been recommended to us by a wine agent we had met during a sampling at our neighbourhood liquor store in St. John's. He was offering samples of Italian wines and we told him we were planning a trip. "If you go to Rome, you have to stay at Barbara's," he said, and told us how to get in touch with her.
We were so glad we took his advice. From the balcony of her elegantly and ecclectically furnished apartment, you could see the dome of St. Peter's in the shimmering haze of the sun. Tired from the trip but thrilled to be in Rome, we headed out as soon as we dropped our bags and followed glimpses of the dome for about 15 minutes until we reached the walls of Vatican City.
By now it was early evening, and feeling hot and tired, we were tempted inside a pizzeria by the gorgeous display of pizza and pasta in the window. It wasn't much more than a hole in the wall, with a few booths and tables inside, and three or four chrome tables set up outside on the sidewalk. We pointed to what we wanted -- funghi pizza, as it turned out -- and selected an ice cold bottle of pale gold Pinot Grigio.
The pizza was deceptively simplistic -- a white sauce, strewn with sauteed mushrooms and melted cheese -- but the taste was pure heaven. Buttery, melt-in-your-mouth mushrooms on a surprisingly complex creamy sauce with a hint of spice. The Pinot Grigio was like chilled sunshine. It was one of the simplest meals we had in Italy, and one of the best.
Best of all? After spending two and a half weeks in Tuscany, we returned to Rome for a couple of nights before our departure and found the very same pizzeria.
The waiter was the same as before. "Funghi pizza and Pinot Grigio!" he said, beaming, when he recognized us.
Once we were back in Newfoundland, I found myself longing for the rustic-style pizzas we'd had in Italy, where the focus is on fresh, quality ingredients, and not the number of toppings you can pile on.
I dug out Pizza and Antipasti, a cookbook by Wilton House that I'd had since the 1990s, and decided to try to recreate a little bit of Italy in our kitchen.
These two recipes were both a success (I've altered them a little), and are good representatives of authentic Italian pizza. If you're feeling lazy on a Friday night after work, buy pre-made pizza shells instead of making your own dough.
Then, chill some Pinot Grigio, invite a few friends over, and enjoy.

Pizza a la Creme
2 tbsp. salted butter
3/4 lb. fresh mushrooms, sliced
2 shallots, peeled and diced
1 cup of white sauce* (recipe follows)
1 pizza dough shell
1 1/4 cups grated mozzarella cheese
3 slices crisp cooked bacon or prosciutto, chopped
a sprinkle of fresh thyme
salt, pepper and paprika to taste


White sauce
4 tbsp. unsalted butter
1/2 a yellow onion, diced
4 tbsp. flour
2 cups skim milk, heated
salt and white pepper
a pinch of nutmeg

For the white sauce
Heat butter in saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook 2 minutes over low heat. Stir in flour and continue cooking 1 minute. Pour in milk, whisking constantly. Season well and add nutmeg. Cook sauce 8 to 10 minutes over low heat. Stir 3 to 4 times during cooking process.
Strain sauce through a sieve into a clean bowl. Cover with a sheet of waxed paper that touches the surface of the sauce, and let cool before refrigerating. This should make enough sauce for 2 pizzas, depending on how saucy you are, and will keep 2 to 3 days in the fridge.

For the pizza
Preheat oven to 500 F. Heat butter in frying pan over medium heat. Add mushrooms and shallots and cook over high heat for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
Spread white sauce over pizza shell. Cover with mushrooms and shallots and top with grated cheese. Season with pepper, salt and paprika.
Cook 10 to 12 minutes. About 2 minutes before pizza is done, add chopped bacon or prosciutto and complete cooking.


Phyllo pizza (makes 6 to 8 servings)
2/3 cup melted salted butter
14 sheets of phyllo pastry dough
3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese (the real stuff, not the processed stuff in the shaker can)
3 tbsp. olive oil
2 onions, peeled and thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed and chopped
2 tbsp. chopped fresh basil
1 1/4 cups grated mozzarella cheese
4 large plum tomatoes, cored and sliced 1/4-inch thick
salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 375 F.
Brush large rectangular baking sheet with melted butter. Position first sheet of phyllo dough in bottom and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. And next sheet of dough, brush with melted butter and sprinkle with Parmesan. Repeat for remaining sheets of dough.
Heat 2 tbsp. oil in frying pan over medium heat. Add onions, garlic and basil. Season well and cook 4 minites. Spoon mixture over top layer of phyllo.
Cover with mozzarella cheese. Top with tomato slices and sprinkle with remaining Parmesan cheese. Drizzle remaining olive oil over tomotoes. Season with pepper.
Cook 30 to 40 minutes in the oven.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Found recipes

Many food products have recipes on their labels, but often we never give them a second thought. The small print and scanty instructions are hardly eye-catching, but food-makers are getting more savvy when it comes to marketing.
The other day, I noticed a recipe attached by an elastic cord to a bottle of Diana marinade that looked mouth-wateringly delicious, and I vowed I would give it a try.
We made these salmon burgers Friday night for our teenagers and their friend, and we all gave it two thumbs up. They're a lot lighter (both in calories and weight) than regular burgers, and taste better, too. We made them on the barbecue but I'm sure you could bake them in a 350 F oven for about half an hour.
Here's the recipe. If you try it, let me know if you enjoyed them.

Sesame Lime Salmon Burgers (makes 4-6)
1/3 cup (75 ml) Diana Sauce original flavour
1 tbsp. (15 ml) sodium-reduced soy sauce
1 tsp. (5 ml) each of finely grated lime zest and sesame oil
2/3 cup (150 ml) panko breadcrumbs
1/4 cup (50 ml) each of chopped green onion and fresh coriander
1 egg
1 lb (500 g) boned, skinless fresh salmon
Toasted sesame rolls
Mayo, Diana Sauce original recipe and mixed lettuce leaves for garnish


Preheat the grill to medium high. Blend the barbecue sauce with the soy sauce, lime zest and sesame oil. Measure out half of the mixture and use it for basting. Mix the remaining mixture with the pnko crumbs, green onion, coriander and egg. Let stand for 5 minutes.

Starting from the outer edge of the salmon, flake off the fish with a fork and add the salmon to the crumb mixture. Using your hands, gently form the mixture into generous-sized patties; arrange them on a heavy-duty, foil-lined baking sheet, then slide the foil onto the barbecue grill. Grill for 5 minutes or so per side, or until they're done to your liking. Don't overcook or they will be dry and unappealing. Spread mayo and Diana sauce on your toasted sesame rolls and add some mixed lettuce leaves. Pile on the patties and enjoy.
Makes a lovely meal with a mixed salad, and my husband and I matched it with a glass of Pinot Noir.
We bought Atlantic salmon for about $11, so these burgers are pretty easy on the wallet, too.


Nutritional information: Per serving (patty only): 306 calories, 11 g fat, 30 g protein, 21 g carbs, 3 g fibre, 450 mg sodium. Excellent source of niacin, riboflavin, folate, and vitamins B6, B12 and D.